Cotton and linen: efficient use and sustainable development

Point of view: Cotton is a textile resource closely related to land. Under the current situation of shrinking arable land, the road to efficient and sustainable development is the fundamental way for development. The hemp fiber with excellent performance can be used as a substitute for the shortage of cotton. However, As far as its development is concerned, there is still a long way to go in developing the market and the scale. Data: 2007 annual statistics show that: the global cotton output is 25,141,000 tons, China's cotton output is 7,111,000 tons, accounting for 28.3% of the total output while the cotton consumption is 11,023,000 tons, accounting for 41% of the global total. %. The annual consumption of hemp fiber in our country is currently about 700,000 tons. Flax and ramie each account for one third. The remaining one-third is jute, sisal and other hemp fibers. The total import of hemp raw material is 269,300 tons. Background Links: After opening up the cotton market in 2000, China's cotton market entered a full-scale reform. The area under cultivation and prices fluctuated substantially. China's implementation of the sliding import tax of cotton to ensure the stability of the domestic cotton prices, but also brought a heavier tax burden on enterprises. Under the impact of the global financial crisis, due to the impact of the decrease of textile exports, the cotton price in China remained low in 2008, coupled with the continuous and substantial increase in the prices of domestic chemical fertilizers and the increase of production costs, which affected farmers' enthusiasm for planting cotton. Zhang Shiping, president of China Linen Textile Industry Association, believes that hemp fiber is the best complement to cotton fiber. Natural and renewable hemp, as well as good taking performance, gives the garment outstanding fashion expression and excellent functionality. How to make more effective use of abundant hemp resources to develop low-cost, high-grade hemp textiles? Upgrading hemp industry technical equipment is currently one of the focus of attention in the industry, China has introduced flax technology and equipment in Europe, but the equipment is relatively backward ramie, lack of technological innovation. In addition, domestic hemp textiles have a limited expansion of the consumer market, and the vast market has not been vigorously exploited. Recent Developments: The "New Forces" Flax, Ramie, Jute and other hemp fibers in the cotton fiber family have long been associated with the development of mankind and may still be described as potential textile raw materials. The overall profit margin of hemp industry is below the industry level, at 2% ~ 3%. However, the profit margin of hemp products is relatively high, mainly in spring and summer. Linen products are the world's high-end textiles, and ramie, jute also have great room for development. Hunan Huasheng Dongting Ma Industry Co., Ltd. scientific and technological personnel use "ramie rapid degumming energy-saving environmental protection technology", "high-quality linen production technology", "carrier composite spinning technology" and "high-ramie cloth high-end finishing technology" and other successful development Out of 666Nm UHP pure ramie series, called ramie in the best. In addition, the emergence of some new varieties of organic cotton, recycled cotton, fair-trade cotton, and natural modified cotton fiber, kapok, hemp, hemp and organic marijuana are also attracting more and more attention. The addition of new varieties not only ease the current situation of China's cotton fiber shortage, but also change the raw material structure of the textile industry. To support the development of the new forces, on the one hand, continuous breakthroughs and innovations in the application of fiber science and technology are required; on the other hand, the certification and promotion of authoritative institutions are required to be closely integrated with market demands. Hemp is a long-lasting textile material with unique functions of hygroscopicity, breathability, mildew prevention, bacteriostasis and radiation resistance. More importantly, hemp is suitable for planting in barren hills and wilderness in remote mountainous areas, which can avoid occupation of farmland by cotton planting The drawbacks come. Zhang Jianchun, director of China Hemp Research Center, said that from the current situation, through the new technology, new technology transformation, hemp products, good efficiency, but this industry can not be coaxed, the product can not be oversupplied. He hoped that through the establishment of alliances, more enterprises will participate in the development of hemp products. Through technological innovation, develop product development plan, we will be firmly together. In 2009, the word linked to Younger's high exposure was "hemp." Li Rucheng, chairman of the group, said at the beginning of the year's Natural Fiber Forum that his real understanding of hemp came five years after he got acquainted with Professor Zhang Jianchun and let him see the vast market prospect of the magic hemp. At present, Younger's DP marijuana pants have been successfully developed, DP cannabis shirt is about to come out, the Younger's Japan-China textile mills, wool mills for the production of hemp fabrics, Younger's suit factory, shirt factory, pants industry, clothing production, 10 Month will be in Beijing, Shanghai, Hangzhou, Ningbo, Suzhou, opened five "world hemp" flagship store. The forefront of development: Through the various aspects of the ecological concept of natural fiber cotton and linen innate characteristics, many people are consistent with the pursuit of comfortable taking performance. At present, the technical means adopted is to give more and stronger market demands on the basis of not destroying the excellent characteristics of cotton and hemp fiber. At present, the blending or intertwining of cotton fiber with other fibers is an important development direction. The addition of Tencel, Model and viscose in cotton fiber emphasizes soft and delicate hand feeling. The adding of silk and silk with bright filament emphasizes the luster of imitation silk. The addition of PTT, XLA and spandex improves the comfortable elasticity of fabric . Ma and cotton, silk, viscose, modified polyester, nylon, Tencel, etc., also can enhance its comfort and appearance. Natural cotton products, the concept of natural environment is particularly emphasized, in fact, the production process of the ecological aspects of the same important. Such as the biological enzyme of cotton fabric refining, short process pretreatment process with high efficiency and environmental protection pretreatment auxiliaries, loose silk mercerizing, wet silk mercerizing mercerizing treatment technology, reactive dye cold rolling and wet short steaming dyeing process, natural pigment dyeing technology and coating Dyeing technology, paint and other printing technology to ensure that from raw materials to the production process of the whole ecological concept. In recent years, the use of biotechnology manufacturing enzymes developed rapidly, the enzyme has the characteristics of high efficiency, specificity, mild processing conditions and non-toxic, in the dyeing and finishing process, for saving energy and water resources, improve the textile Processing efficiency and processing quality, the protection of the ecological environment is of great significance, textile dyeing and finishing is an ideal method. Currently in the country, amylase, PVA catabolism enzyme, pectinase, glucose oxidase and catalase have been widely used in desizing, scouring and bleaching of cotton fabrics. After laccase has been dyed with cotton fabric reactive dyes Soaping, the application of cellulase and laccase in denim clothing enzymatic washing has also been popularized. Experts point out that due to lack of varieties of enzymes, high processing costs, the use of certain enzymes and the use of PH temperature range is narrow, coupled with the diversity of impurities in natural fibers and other reasons, the enzyme in many areas of application is not yet mature enough, Also need to do a lot of work, these jobs need textile printing and dyeing industry and biochemical departments work together. Expert opinion: follow the path of sustainable and efficient development The United Nations proclaimed 2009 as the International Year of Natural Fibers, aimed at strengthening understanding of natural fibers and stimulating demand for natural fibers. Countries are encouraged to introduce suitable government support policies to address the natural fiber industry's Some issues; encourage the natural fiber industry to carry out effective and lasting international cooperation; promote the efficiency of natural fibers and the sustainability of development. Ni Hongxing, director of the Ministry of Agriculture's Agricultural Trade Promotion Center, said that under the current global economic conditions, the growth of China's textile industry will obviously slow down in the short term and the consumption of natural fiber such as cotton as the main textile raw material will inevitably be affected. However, with the introduction of the state supportive policies, the Chinese textile industry still has certain international competitiveness. At the same time, there will be room for growth in domestic consumption of textiles. Stabilizing exports and expanding domestic demand will all be the supporting points and footholds for the sustainable development of China's textile and garment industry. In the long run, China has huge natural fiber consumption potential. For the prospects for the future development of hemp fiber, Zhang Shiping, president of China Hemp Industry Association, pointed out that in order to increase investment in innovation in technology and products, emphasize the differentiation of hemp products, pay attention to the blending of hemp and other fibers, and improve their performance and style, More in line with the Chinese people's spending habits, open the domestic consumer market. At the same time, hemp is the most competitive livelihood industry in China and a sustainable eco-industry. It is one of the key points for future development and one of the important areas for improving the structure of textile raw materials. (Yan Chun)

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