With the improvement of people's living standards, people have more and more requirements on the performance of fabrics, anti-pilling pilling is one of them. Pilling mainly occurs in wool, polyester/wool and cotton fabrics, but more often in polyester/cotton or polyester/viscose blend fabrics. Polyester/cotton/polyester/viscose blend fabrics are favored by users because of their durability, aesthetics and wearing comfort. However, these advantages have been left out because they are more pliable than natural fibers. However, this phenomenon does not occur with fabrics and garments made of polyester filaments, and the staple fibres are easily brought to the surface due to friction during wear and washing, thereby forming small balls. Therefore, pilling is the common thread product. In the process of wearing and using the pile fabric, the short fibers protruding from the surface of the fabric are apt to be tangled into a ball, affecting the appearance of the felt, and especially the high-end products have a close-fitting, soft and smooth need, which will increase this trend and play a role. It is related to raw material properties, spinning and dyeing and finishing processes, weaving structure and wearing style. The influence of raw materials and spinning and dyeing on balling is very complicated, and the mechanism is still under discussion. The excessive pursuit of anti-pilling has a negative impact on the style and quality of wool products.
2.1.1 Raw materials
2.1.2 æ»åº¦
From the analysis of cashmere yarn twists, in order to obtain a good feel for the cashmere sweater, the twist should not be too large during spinning, so the binding between fibers is not very tight. From the analysis of the structure of cashmere sweaters, cashmere sweaters belong to knitted fabrics, and in order to give full play to the characteristics of soft and smooth cashmere, in the post-finishing process, one must go through the key process, that is, the reduction process, one of the purposes of this process. It is to shrink some of the fibers in the cashmere, covering the surface of the cashmere sweater organization, making it feel soft, it is easy to make the cashmere sweater surface entanglements of each other into a ball.
Thicker fibers are less likely to pill. The yarns spun from coarse fibers have a small number of fibers in a unit area, and have fewer fiber ends exposed on the yarn and the fabric surface. In addition, the fibers are thicker and harder, and the fibers erected on the surface of the fabric are not easily entangled into balls.
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The reason for fabric pilling
1. Reasons for the pilling of polyester fabrics and the pilling process and factors
Due to its high strength, good water repellency and soft hand, polyester fabrics are popular among consumers. However, the polyester fabric often plays a role of fluffing and pilling during use, affecting the appearance of beauty and taking performance. How to reduce the pilling and fuzzing of polyester fabrics has been the research direction of many researchers. In fact, the reason why polyester fabrics are easy to pill is closely related to fiber properties, mainly due to small cohesion between fibers, high fiber strength, and high elongation capacity, particularly resistance to bending fatigue, resistance to torsion fatigue, and good abrasion resistance. Fiber easily slides out of the surface of the fabric. Once it forms a ball on the surface, it does not easily fall off quickly. During actual wear and washing, the fibers are constantly subjected to friction so that the fibers on the surface of the fabric are exposed to the fabric. Many unpleasant hairs appear on the surface of the fabric, that is, "fluffing". If these hairy hairs do not fall off in time when they continue to wear, they will become entangled with each other and be kneaded into many spherical pellets, usually called pilling. .
Factors affecting the pilling: There are many factors affecting the fabric's fuzzing and pilling, which can be summarized from the following aspects: (1) fibers that make up the fabric; (2) textile process parameters; (3) dyeing and finishing; and (4) conditions of use.
2. Reasons and factors for pilling of cashmere fabrics
Cashmere sweaters have been favored by consumers both at home and abroad because of their characteristics of “lightness, softness, coolness, and comfortâ€. Many consumers in the process of wearing cashmere sweaters found that cashmere sweaters played ball, and therefore questioned the quality of cashmere sweaters.
2.1 The reasons for the pilling of cashmere sweaters
The reasons for the pilling of cashmere sweaters are determined by the characteristics of the cashmere sweater fibers.
2.1.1 Raw materials
From the analysis of raw materials, the fineness of cashmere is 14.5-15.9um, the length is 30-40mm, and the curling degree is 3-4/cm, indicating that the cashmere is a fine and short fiber with a relatively small crimp and fine wool; cashmere The cross section of the fiber is close to a circle; cashmere is also a fiber with strong single strength, elongation and excellent elasticity.
2.1.2 æ»åº¦
From the analysis of cashmere yarn twists, in order to obtain a good feel for the cashmere sweater, the twist should not be too large during spinning, so the binding between fibers is not very tight. From the analysis of the structure of cashmere sweaters, cashmere sweaters belong to knitted fabrics, and in order to give full play to the characteristics of soft and smooth cashmere, in the post-finishing process, one must go through the key process, that is, the reduction process, one of the purposes of this process. It is to shrink some of the fibers in the cashmere, covering the surface of the cashmere sweater organization, making it feel soft, it is easy to make the cashmere sweater surface entanglements of each other into a ball.
In summary, it is not difficult to draw a conclusion that a small amount of pilling of cashmere sweaters is a normal phenomenon. The reason for this has a lot to do with the nature of raw materials, yarn twist and fabric structure. The national textile industry standards have clear provisions for the pilling of knitwear, and the number of pilling levels is 1-5: the worst in 1st grade is for serious pilling; 2 is for significant pilling; 3 is for general pilling; 4 The level is slightly pilling; level 5 is the best, can not afford the ball. In the standard, there is a clear provision on the playing of cashmere knitwear. The number of shots of excellent products in cashmere knitwear is not less than 3-4, and the number of shots in first-class goods is not less than 3. As consumers, they should try to avoid friction with various hard objects when wearing cashmere sweaters. If partial pilling is found, it can be gently removed and then washed and heated without affecting the wearing effect.
2.2 The main factors affecting fabric pilling
2.2.1 The length of the fiber
Fabrics woven with longer fibers are lighter than fabrics with shorter fibers; because the number of fiber heads per unit length is small, the fiber ends of the exposed yarn and the fabric surface are also less; in addition, the cohesion force between the long fibers is smaller. Big, county committees are not easy to slip out onto the surface of yarns and fabrics. 2.2.2 Fineness of Fiber
Thicker fibers are less likely to pill. The yarns spun from coarse fibers have a small number of fibers in a unit area, and have fewer fiber ends exposed on the yarn and the fabric surface. In addition, the fibers are thicker and harder, and the fibers erected on the surface of the fabric are not easily entangled into balls.
2.2.3 Curl degree of fiber
The curl of the fiber is large, the cohesive force between the fibers is large, the friction is increased, the fiber is not easily released to the surface of the fabric, and it is not easy to pill.
2.2.4 cross-sectional shape of the fiber
The cross-sectional shape of the fiber is close to a circle, and the cohesion between the fibers is small, and it is easier to play a ball than a fiber having a cross-sectional shape close to a triangle, a polygon, or the like.
2.2.5 Fiber Strength, Elongation and Elasticity
Fiber strength, high elongation, good elasticity is not easy to break off the friction, once fluffed, it is easy to tangled into a ball.
2.2.6 Yarn twist
The yarn twist is large, the fibers are tightly bound and the degree of fabric pilling is reduced.
2.2.7 Structure of the fabric
Knits are easier to pill than woven fabrics. In addition, the finishing of the fabric and the manner in which it is worn have an effect on the degree of pilling of the fabric.
3. Wool polyester fabric pilling factors
The factors influencing the pilling of wool/polyester fabrics can be summarized as: the fiber types that make up the fabric, the textile process parameters, the processing after dyeing and finishing, and the conditions for taking them. Over the years, people have studied the influence of the parameters of yarns and fabrics on the pilling of knitted fabrics, and little research has been done on the pilling characteristics of worsted wool fabrics. The influence of fabric organization, weft and weft density, yarn linear density, yarn twist, and wool content on fabrics on the spinning of worsted wool and polyester fabrics is relatively large.
The relevant persons in China used a round loom fabric pilling tester (YG502) to test and analyze the pilling performance of 9 kinds of worsted wool/polyester fabrics. Tested in accordance with GB/T 4802.1-1997. There was no significant difference in the pilling grade of the fabric under this test condition, however, in the actual wearing of garments made of various fabrics, their anti-pilling properties are different. Most wool and polyester worsted fabrics do not pill under the test conditions given in GB/T4802.1-1997, but they appear to be pilling during wearing, and some fabrics are still more severe. In order to analyze the pilling performance of wool/polyester textiles, non-standard test conditions were applied to nine kinds of wool/polyester worsted textiles. The results of the pilling performance of the nine kinds of fabrics show that the pilling properties of different fabrics are quite different.
In general, the fabric of the plain weave fabric is relatively small; the weft and weft density of the fabric affects the fabric pilling; the yarn twist and yarn linear density affect the fabric pilling resistance. Only from the perspective of the warp and weft density, increase the warp and weft density and the fabric tightness, fabric anti-pilling performance increased. By reducing yarn count, the number of fibers in the cross-section of the yarn increases and the number of fiber ends increase. More hairiness may be formed on the surface of the fabric to increase the probability of formation of hairballs. Increased yarn twist will hinder the fiber end in the yarn. Moving out of the yarn makes it difficult to form fur on the surface of the fabric, reducing the chance of hairball formation. However, from the test results can not fully reflect the impact of a certain parameter change in the fabric structure against the pilling performance, affecting the pilling is a joint of fabric structure parameters. In actual work, the structural parameters design of the worsted fabric must first ensure the style characteristics of the fabric. It is impossible for the enterprise to improve the anti-pilling property of the fabric only by blindly increasing the twist or designing the plain weave fabric. Therefore, to reduce the pilling of the fabric, a number of factors must be taken into consideration when designing the fabric, so that the designed product does not lose its proper style.
Third, control fabric pilling several measures:
(1) Select fibers that are not easy to pill in the production of yarns and fabrics.
(2) Lubsoft Lubricator is used to prevent friction when pre-treatment and dyeing are performed in a jet dyeing machine;
(3) Crystalline sodium sulfate can be used instead of the common salt when dyeing cotton with reactive dyes and polyester/cellulosic fiber blends in jet dyeing machines.
(4) Appropriate heat setting is applied to the polyester/cellulose fibers and the polyester/wool blended fabrics to shape the yarns and overfeed as appropriate.
(4) Appropriate heat setting is applied to the polyester/cellulose fibers and the polyester/wool blended fabrics to shape the yarns and overfeed as appropriate.
(5) The shearing of the hair is performed simultaneously with brushing to remove the surface fibers and the protruding fibers.
(6) Singe on both sides to remove surface fibers and protruding fibers.
(7) For terylene and polyester/cellulosic fiber blended fabrics, partial alkali reduction of the polyester component can reduce the strength of the polyester, so the ball is easily removed.
(8) Cellusof-L is used for cotton and polyester/cellulosic fiber blended fabrics; wool or polyester/wool blended fabrics are polished using suitable biological enzymes.
(9) Polyester/cellulosic fibers, polyester/wool and cotton fabrics were treated with a special additive, Saraglow-CL, in a jet dyeing machine, and garments were washed with a cage to remove surface fibers.
(10) Dosage should be appropriate to avoid excessive softness and lubrication, otherwise it will cause the fiber to move to the surface and cause pilling.
(11) Finishing with special finishing agents, such as: Sarafeel-jy/Sarafeel-763, a specialty silicone compound that can impart flexibility to fabrics and improve ball properties through film formation; Sarasoft-MR silicone type polymeric finishing agents, Film-forming properties improve wear resistance; Garfinish-As has anti-pilling and anti-scratch properties that can be added to conventional finishing solutions.
Fourth, the conclusion
According to expert analysis, there are theoretically many steps that can cause the fabric to pill: if the fibers are stretched to the surface of the fabric due to mechanical action, and form hairs; the hairs are tangled into a ball and are attached to the surface of the fabric by means of sessile fibers; in friction, washing During and after wearing and cleaning, continuous mechanical action causes the ball to fall off and so on. It can be said that any short fiber will play a ball, and the staple fiber of polyester staple fiber is the most serious. This is mainly due to the high strength and anti-hyperbolic properties of polyester, which make it difficult for the formed ball to break off from the fiber, and the static electricity of polyester is very easy to attract foreign particles to produce a pill. Fiber length and fineness, low twist, hairy and bulky yarns, individual yarns, weaving types, and the type of finish used all contribute to pilling. Therefore, the downstream business can only use various methods to control the pilling and pilling phenomenon in time. In addition, practice has proved that the higher the fixing temperature is, the more favorable it is to fight against pilling and pilling, but the higher the temperature is, the harder it is to feel. Appropriate heat setting is applied to the whole polyester, polyester/cellulose fiber and polyester/wool blended fabric, which is favorable for anti-pilling and pilling effect. The improvement.
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