2016 Victoria's Secret Underwear show will be held on November 30 at the Grand Palais in Paris, France, which is the first time Vermeer fashion show in Paris.
In 1907, the French designer Paul Pooley declared "the rise of the waistline and the rise of bras in the name of freedom." He was thus considered the inventor of bras. Although it is controversial to anyone who invented a brassiere for the first time in history, the retrospective history of the evolution of women's underwear reflects the self-awareness of women and their different demands on the body image in a specific era.
The rudiment of underwear begins with the body thing
The first modern underwear was invented, over a hundred years. Now, we can see that the weaver angel show to show the world the most beautiful body and the most beautiful bra. Underwear is no longer a matter of privacy, it is in the interpretation of the Angels were given life. Swaying under different backgrounds and themes is simply a girl's dream come true.
Strictly speaking, the history of underwear is far more than a century. In China, the history of lingerie can be traced back to the Spring and Autumn and Warring States period of more than 2,500 years ago, when the courtiers and palace ladies should always tighten their belts to keep the waist shape, which should be regarded as a prototype of human body sculpting underwear There are "good king waist Chu, the palace starved to death," the story. Chinese women's underwear in different periods of different styles, the name is different. Han dynasty has "holding the belly" "heart clothing", Wei and Jin "crotch", the Tang Dynasty, "Myrobalan", the Yuan Dynasty have "Accellerata", the Ming Dynasty "Lord waist", the Qing Dynasty "bellyband", and the Republican period There are "small vest."
In Western culture, the earliest appearance of underwear may be worn by ancient Roman women "chest strap." It's so named because it really is a wide band that tightly surrounds the chest. This is a great improvement over the ancient Egyptians: the ladies of ancient Egypt usually wear nothing under their outer garments. By the 16th century, the corset had become a necessity for aristocratic ladies. Corset may be decorated with expensive lace and embroidery, but is made of hard whale bone, rattan and cowhide, thick and bulky. At this time is the most popular pinch waist corset, tightly binding the waist of women, but also squeeze the chest prominent, so that many women are breathless. The psychologist Foiloglé was one of the first to use the psychoanalytic theory to explain the sexual symbolism of clothing. He argues that "clothes not only have a sexual arousal, but they themselves have actually become symbols of sexual organs." This can be glimpsed into the corset of a woman.
Four hundred years after being restrained by a corset, on the eve of the twentieth century, a French lady burst her whims and separated the chest and waist parts of the bodice to allow the women to breathe. By the First World War, steel making corsets was tight, a large number of male laborers were brought to the battlefield, and women had to step out of the house to take over the work of men, and the corsets became less and less available, leaving only the chest portion retained Down. The old corset has neither good comfort nor great harm to the women's body. Bra began to gradually replace the status of corset.
In 1912, New York socialite Mary Phelps Jacobs invented the first patent bra. She attended the ball, with two handkerchiefs and pink ribbons to form a bra-like underwear, which attracted the envy of his girlfriend and merchants envy strong interest. She then made many of the same productions for her girlfriend and filed a patent in 1914 under the name of Caresse Crosby, with the birth of the "backless bra".
After World War I, avant-garde women in Europe and North America began to wear these bras. They gradually spread among women in Asia, Africa and Latin America and became the originators of modern women's bras. From the invention of the first corset to the corset was completely abandoned, a woman's underwear design has indeed undergone a long evolution.
By the 1920s, the trend was changing. Girls were popular for short cuts, jazz and bras to "flat" development. Girls in this period were replaced by "little vests." The corset made of soft silk downplayed the curves of women, with the flat chest representing the style of a Western modern girl in the 1920s.
In 1922 Maidenform, a professional women's underwear company, was founded. Positive chest wave, May Maidenform always adhere to one purpose: to create a bra lift function, shaping the female arc curve. They designed a underwear to become a template for modern underwear: It is better to use a more prominent shape to show the beauty of curves than to hide the natural curves of women. Until today, Maidenform also battle in the first line of the design of women's underwear.
Cup home: "free trash"
30 years, to A, B, C, D and other letters to determine the cup appears the method to facilitate women to choose their own underwear. At this stage, the design of different cup, greatly enhance the comfort of the bra. At the same time Bra is also born.
World War II, apparently inspired by the war, a "torpedo" advertising bras turned out to once again enrich the diversity of underwear family. In the same period, in order to protect the women working in the factory, there are also underwear designed specifically for them.
After the war, women began to sprout new aesthetic and consumption patterns and constantly tap the desire of the people in the consumer society for a perfect body shape. Underwear is also further involved in people's struggle for social identity and body control and conflict. The primary purpose of underwear, but also from dealing with the natural environment, maintaining social moral standards, and gradually transition to the consumer society's self-expression. The middle of the last century, underwear began to enter the fashion industry, boarded the major fashion show T station platform. Kristen Dior's "NEW LOOK" fashion call gorgeous underwear, and even issued a "no underwear no fashion," the amazing words. American companies quickly developed a cross, cyclotron to make conical cups, commonly known as "missile-style bras."
That era was called the era of Marilyn Monroe. Married Monroe is almost a sexy spokesperson in Hollywood. In 2014, 300 pieces of Marilyn Monroe's relics were auctioned at the Julien auction house in Beverly Hills, Calif., Including a white bra.
Monroe, a poor man, was not educated. She once said: "My illusion has nothing to do with becoming a good actor. I know how good I am and how I feel lack of talent, just like wearing a low-cost vulgar Underwear. "Thus, the quality of underwear has become one of the standards of self-awareness of women.
Monroe bullets the shape of the bra extremely popular, wear this underwear, the chest looks like a pointed. Today, the strong return of this underwear, once again appeared in the High Street in the UK, setting off a retro wave. However, unlike the previous horror of the awl shape, the underwear is now more comfortable, the breasts up, people look younger. And the bullet-shaped bra at the same time the return of the fifties and sixties and waistband and pants and so on. It seems, fashion is the classic reincarnation phrase is also effective for underwear.
Also in the 1950s, corsets returned again, more advanced materials and soft design to make the corset a synonym for sexy women, even tightly wrapped, but also exudes an irresistible sexy atmosphere. At this time the corset with the modern similar, and more delicate and beautiful.
In 1964, the Canadian lingerie designers designed the first high care bra, lingerie on the out of all the women dumped, but also the designer named Louis, "the woman's most high 'man ". At the same time, people began to pay attention to the material of underwear. In 1965, Rodi Gernreich designed the NoBrabra, which sews on underwear with a supportive, non-deformable Lycra, a very slim material that looks like nothing else.
But no matter how the appearance changes, women's underwear is always associated with restraint and oppression, and feminism begins to express themselves in underwear. At the 1968 Miss America Beauty Contest, a group of ladies gathered outside Atlanta to throw high heels, lipstick and bras in the trash and call the trash "a free trash."
Corset ladies are not only the shackles of the female body, but also the fetters of the spirit of women. This is the most intuitive embodiment of Rose.
Waichuan underwear: to lead the design inspiration and fashion trends
The promotion of the feminist movement made the forms of women's underwear more and more diversified, and their meanings were more complicated. Thus, in 1977, the first sports underwear was designed so that ladies can enjoy the fun of running and jumping as much as they can. The other extreme is that the bra as an important symbol of female fantasy, constantly in the film and television shows and entertainment appear, exaggerated and exquisite style. Eighties of last century, many designers to wear underwear, given to the new corset women. For example, in 1990 by Madonna performed at the concert corset. Underwear Waichuan due to never satisfied with the status quo of fashion designers inspiration, and provide them with a luxury to talk about "deconstruction" opportunities. When underwear Waichuan to become a kind of clothing style, people began more straightforward display of their inner world.
Interestingly enough, Madonna's astounding conical bra was as early as 80 years ago. 1915, Frank Powell reluctantly selected an extractor Odoosi Goodman starring Fox Inc. "There was an idiot" based on a film adapted from Kipling's long poem "The Goblin". The first sexy star was born. Oudhja Goodman's heavy make-up drifted across the screen to excite bored men in her life. Producers suddenly smell the money's breath. As a result, the daughter of the Cincinnati tailor, overnight became the crystallization of a passionate love between a French artist and an Egyptian princess in the Sahara desert. The studios arranged the spelling ARAB DEATH into her new name, THEDA BARA. From this one screen up and down all in the lure of men and the image of his death to pleasure deeply impressed in the audience's heart.
The tapered bra has also become a symbol of Teda Barra. Teda Barra is one of the first interesting women in the twentieth century. This woman's position in fashion should be as important as the movie. A jeweled bra she had worn that year was simply considered sensual, but it was a "pioneer". In the history of underwear development, this ancient Egyptian fashion works undoubtedly implied the advanced futurism.
90's, fashion brands to carry out a strong publicity and marketing, huge advertising model naked body seems to further strengthen the underwear in the attractiveness of the projection. At the same time, with the popularity and development of the mass media, underwear gradually transcends its material forms and practical functions, participates in the stage of the politics of the times and transmits brand-new gender awareness.
Into the 21st century, the concept and number of bras are still constantly refreshing. In 2009, the British "Daily Mail" found that on average, every woman spent an average of 4,000 dollars on bras, each with an average of 16 bras in her drawer. The largest underwear brand in the United States, "Victoria's Secret," hit a record annual sales of nearly 2.8 billion US dollars, which sold 600 copies per minute. This fully illustrates the importance of underwear for modern women, and according to different occasions, more and more types of underwear designed, such as the strapless bra and invisible bras, including the chest paste, can meet a variety of women's dress requirements, Such as Lady Gaga's various costumes.
From the historical commercialization of women's underwear, fashion change, and the growing trend of neutralization, we can read the signal of changes in the times. The current exhibition "Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear" at the Victoria and Albert Museum in England tells the history of lingeries from the 18th century to the present and examines gender notions and morals through the relationship between modality and fashion of women's and men's underwear Change of concept. "The opening of the show, just in time for underwear changing from intimate clothing to open-minded apparel, has gradually become a source of design inspiration and fashion," says exhibition curator Edwina Ehrman.
In 2013, Victoria's Secret launched a bra that cost as much as 10 million U.S. dollars. The bra is studded with 4200 gems and a pear-shaped pearly pendant weighing 52 carats. At this time, the corset is no longer a daily necessities for women, but a work of art: it preserves the most intimate secrets of women and leads to infinite illusions. Those bright gems are actually beautiful dreams lingering on the female chest.
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