Spain's younger generation of designers reshape Spain's global fashion status

Behind an exhibition, there are always messages that curators and organizational teams want to convey. The same is true of the Modus exhibition in Madrid, Spain.

The Modus exhibition explores the impact of Spanish history and traditional culture on global fashion, including emerging designers. And a new generation of young Spanish designers are once again awakening their "Spanish characteristics": ancient traditions, religious images, and even black elements - black centuries was the symbol of Spanish rule of the monarch centuries ago.

Modus exhibition curator Raul Marina said: "This is a very important moment (in the history of Spanish fashion), Spanish designers including Palmo Spain, Leandro Cano, ManeMane, etc. are once again shaping Spain's position in the fashion world - young People are igniting a wave of attention, and the inspiration is all from Spain."

Fashion consultant Marta Blanco said that the Spanish fashion industry is feeling “awakening, there is a feeling that every Spaniard has begun to return to the Franco regime. Designers like Leandro Cano can draw inspiration from Spanish bullfighting, religious intentions, etc. But has nothing to do with fascism."

Marta Blanco's so-called "awakening" is not only in the design side, but also in the consumer group. "More and more Spaniards are proud of their country and country."

This pride stems from the excellence of more Spaniards in their respective fields, and the use of Marta Blanco is, "(These achievements give the Spaniards) empowerment." For example: Spanish chef Ferran Adria promoted the global revolution in the culinary world. The Spanish football team won the European Cup in 2008 and 2012 respectively, and won the World Cup in 2010. In addition, Rafael Nadal became The world's leading top tennis player, the Spanish fast fashion brand Zara all over the world...

Spanish fashion history

black

In the case of black, this color has now become the representative color of French elegance, and this change is the little black dress designed by Ms. Coco Chanel in the 1920s. But as early as the 16th century, the Spaniards began to use black in clothing.

Prior to this, black has always been a color that is difficult to wear. After repeated washing or long-term use, the dye will fade and turn into a soft, nearly brown soft object. As Spain conquered the Americas, specifically Mexico in the 16th century, they discovered a tree called Logwood.

The wood of the sapwood can be made into a black dye that is strong and durable. As the main economic and political power at that time, the then Spanish King Felipe II used black as his own color, which quickly caused a wave of fashion in black.

Amalia Descalzo, a clothing history expert at the ISEM Fashion Business School in the Spanish fashion business school, wrote in the Modus exhibition brochure that the (Spanish) monarchy is "a reference to all European monarchies, and its plain black robes also represent supreme elegance." ”

Time has evolved to modern times, and many overseas and Spanish designers, such as Cristobal Balenciaga, have featured black in their personal branded collections, while new young designers continue to interpret black in their own way. For example, the ManeMane brand black tights and skirts exhibited at the Modus exhibition are paired with the typical Hats of the brand's founder, Miguel Becer, the southwestern part of Spain's Extremadura region.

Skirt

In the 16th century, Spain not only promoted the application of black in the field of clothing, but also created a unique clothing structure: verdugado. The Spanish skirt was originally made of wood and was worn by women in outer skirts to create a different look for the skirt. It was first popular in the Spanish upper class, and then gradually spread to Britain, France and even Europe, and appeared in different styles and shapes over time.

Following verdugado, Spain created another trend: guardainfante, which needs to be hung on the side of the wearer's body to expand the skirt on one side. Raul Marina pointed out: "This skirt can block the pregnant belly of women."

The guardainfante appeared in the famous work of the Spanish painter Diego Velazquez, Las Meninas (picture 1 below). The influence of this skirt can be found in the yellow bell-shaped velvet dress of young designer Juanjo Oliva in this Modus exhibition (picture 2 below).

Cultural element

When it comes to Spain, the key words that come to mind are: bullfighting and flamenco. These two cultures exported from Spain to the world have given inspiration to designers everywhere.

Raul Marina said: “There is a saying in the industry that international designers have long been immersed in Spanish characteristics and are more proud than us (Spanish).” The brands and works that incorporate Spanish elements in design are:

French luxury brand Givenchy, has launched a black velvet flamenco style jacket with red embroidery and pearls;

The French classic luxury brand Lanvin has launched a creamy black lotus leaf skirt inspired by the flamenco tradition of southern Andalusia, Spain;

The trend of “overseas strength and local weakness” is also changing. The more religious and traditional elements appear in the works of a new generation of Spanish designers. Such as:

In 2017, Beyonce, wearing the corolla of Palomo Spain, wearing a white silk skirt with a light-headed turban, took a group of photos with the twin baby born soon.

Lady Gaga wore a white ballet dress from Leandro Cano with a floral pattern, inspired by the reign of King Philip III.

ManeMane's work absorbs the traditional craftsmanship of the Spanish Extremadura region.